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  • Writer's pictureShort Hills Custom

The Anatomy of a Suit Jacket

The Breasts

On the left, we have a single-breasted jacket, and, on the right, we have a double-breasted jacket. The difference, as you may have noticed, is that the single-breasted jacket has one vertical row of buttons while the double breasted as two.

The Button Stance

The stance refers to the depth of the V-shaped formed at the front of a closed jacket. The more buttons present the higher the stance will be.

The level of formality depends on how much of yourself you cover up. 1 button suits are considered the least formal, and 3 button suits are the most formal.


The Lapel Button Hole

Near the lower tip of the left lapel, there is a small slit. The color of the thread on the label button hole can be customized to compliment and enhance the fabric of your suit.

The Pockets

The pockets of your jacket can be completely customized to your liking. The possibility of pocket styles and positions are endless!

The Lining

The lining is the inside layer that sits between the jackets fabric and you. Its purpose is to provide structure within the jacket, and it serves as an insulating layer.

There are three levels of lining, as displayed in the picture below.

Fully lined: Have a high capacity to keep their shape and are more durable than other styles.

Half Lined: The happy medium between fully-lined and unlined. The location and amount of lining varies.

Unlined: Offer the best in terms of breathbility, and they’re a great option for warmer climates. The trade off is less durability and structure.

Choosing the lining of your jacket is often the fun part since we offer countless lining options, from basic/conservative styles to fun/vibrant ones.

The Cuffs

There are two types of cuffs; functional and non-functional. Functional cuffs can be unbuttoned, and non-functional cuffs cannot.

The Vents

Single Vented styles have one slit down the middle.

Double Vented styles have two openings on the back closer to the side, which allow a more natural fit. They feel most comfortable when closed, and when sitting down or moving around.

Non-Vented jackets are non-vented and have no openings in the back. They will have a tighter feel.

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